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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.